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flowering from seed

Growing this way still requires all the knowledge that would be needed to flower plants with any other method, and maintenance routines still remain unchanged. After diluted nutrients, while still young, treat your plants as you would during a normal bud cycle. However, flush more often, every ten days at most, so as to avoid salt build-up in the smaller pots.

There is a lesser demand for resources across the boards.
You will experience only half the water consumption with less moisture loss due to evaporation, and a third less nutrients are used. CO₂ and electricity use including most peripherals are reduced by a staggering 650 grow hours annually.
Taking hours to accomplish, tipping, fimming, branch control, and mainlining are now unnecessary freeing up your most precious resource, time.

Plants with less side branching and canopy spread need less space between them, increasing efficiency. As an example: 1x 15-litre pot produces one plant with a large volume and difficult maintenance issues in a cramped space. 4x 3.5-litre pots in the same sized space can produce just as much dried material with the benefit of being easier to rotate, so the whole plant gets 360-degree light. The entire crop is less hassle during maintenance as each plant is 100% accessible and physically easier to move about. There is no need for a separate sprouting and veg space or time wasted on 18-6 vegetation. The seeds can be sprouted under the 12-12 growing lights providing continual flowering plants.

SPACE SAVING

There are some haters of this method, but many love it. Those who hate on it often have not actually tried it. It is all about giving it a go and seeing what works for you. Even if you decide against it after trying it, it all helps expand your knowledge as a grower.

Do you want to go from seed to bud quicker and cheaper? A faster, space saving and economical way to grow is the no veg, seed to flower, 12-12 light cycle method.

Done with expert practice and a willing strain of cannabis seeds, it is not unknown to produce 1 gram of ganja per watt of lighting. That’s an impressive 250g in 7-9 weeks for a 250W light in a small cupboard!

Growing 12-12 is as simple as changing the timing on your light cycles, giving your plants equal amounts of day and night right from when they sprout. The plants will look different to a cannabis plant that goes through vegetative growth. Photosensitive hormones in cannabis make the highest point the largest cola. This method all but guarantees only main bud growth on every small plant. Essentially you will be growing a cola with a few short, budded side branches – with the plant basically being a bud in itself. Be sure to stake your plants.

The showy flowers of these spring- and early summer-blooming perennials come in many colors. Allow them to self-seed, and they’ll come back year after year with minimal maintenance from you. Columbine can tolerate a variety of growing conditions, but make sure your plant isn’t sitting in poorly drained soil. Also, if you remove the stems after they’re finished flowering, you can prolong the plant’s blooming period.

Growing flowers from seed allows you to choose from a wider variety than what’s at your local garden center. Peruse a seed catalogue to find numerous options to grow in your area.

Cosmos (Cosmos)

These blue flowers look like miniature carnations and tend to attract butterflies. Sow the seeds directly in your garden bed after the final frost of spring. Or you can start them roughly six to eight weeks before your projected last frost date, and then transplant the seedlings into your garden once the weather warms. They will flower from mid-summer until the first frost of fall and require very little care from you besides watering during prolonged dry spells. Collect the brown seed pods at the end of the season to plant in your garden the next year.

Sunflowers don’t start blooming until late in the season, usually from around July to August. But when those giant blooms finally emerge, it’s well worth the wait. Plant the seeds directly in your garden after your final frost, ideally in a location that’s protected from strong winds. Seeds started indoors will typically flower at roughly the same time as seeds directly sown in the garden, so there’s really no benefit to starting them early. Sunflowers are annuals, so you’ll need to save some of the seeds to replant the next year. Cover a few of the seed heads with netting, so they can dry out without the birds feasting on them.

You can be nasty to nasturtiums, and these hardy flowers will tolerate your neglect. The leaves and flowers are edible and often added to salads. But they’re perhaps more popular as a cut flower because of their lovely fragrance and beautiful colors. Nasturtiums can tolerate poor and dry soil, though you should water them during extended dry spells. And protect them from the afternoon sun in hot climates. Plus, skip the fertilizer, as too much richness in the soil can actually inhibit blooming.

Since then, we have trialled many different varieties, discovering the easiest and most rewarding flowers to raise from seed, as well as the most challenging. The ones we come back to year after year include ammi, cosmos, honesty, nigella, opium poppies and sweet peas – and others like orlaya and aquilegia, which can be tricky but are worth the effort. Choosing a range of plant types that bloom at different times will give you a longer flowering season. Biennials (plants that form leaves in the first year and flower in the second) are the first to flower in late spring. These should be sown in late spring or early summer to flower the following year.

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I n 2012, the photographer Sabina Rüber and I started a project to grow annuals from seed. We soon realized that there is an enormous and exciting range of plants that are cheap, quick and often amazingly easy to grow in this way – not only annual flowers but also perennials, ornamental grasses and herbs – and we set ourselves the challenge of growing as many as we could. The first year was a washout. It was the wettest spring for decades and most of our seedlings were destroyed. But I was not ready to give up so, the following year, I created a new cutting patch, which I filled almost entirely with plants I had raised from seed. Rather than buying expensive perennials or trays of bedding plants, I had spent just a few pounds on packets of seed that would produce hundreds of plants. I was hooked.

GERMINATING SEEDS
Germination requirements vary for each plant but, basically, seeds need the right balance of moisture, temperature, air and light. The first element, water, is essential, so make sure the compost is moistened before you sow, ideally by soaking the tray in water from below, then covering the seed tray with a plastic lid or plastic bag. On the other hand, do not drown the compost with water as oxygen will be excluded and the seeds will struggle to germinate. The same hap- pens if you pack the compost down too firmly, so a light touch is crucial.

Seeds come in all shapes and sizes, and this can dictate how you sow them. We use modular cell trays for all but the tiniest of seeds (which are best sown in traditional seed trays). For modular trays, sow one or two seeds to a cell, which eliminates the need to prick the seedlings out and minimises root disturbance. Multipurpose compost is the most economical to use, although you may need to put it through a riddle to remove bigger lumps, while seed compost is more expensive and finer in consistency – I use it for very small seeds or very precious ones.
Other flowers, such as poppies and nigella, are best sown directly into the ground as their roots resent being disturbed. There are various techniques for this, including sowing in drills and broadcasting (simply scattering the seed where you want it to grow), but the most important thing is to make sure that the soil is well dug and raked to a fine tilth.