B: Sow under glass in 3-4 inch pots at 75-80F using a propagator if possible. Transplant into individual 3 inch pots at the 4-6 leaf stage and finally into large pots or Gro Bags. Keep frost free at all times. (Remember peppers can take up to 1 month to germinate.)
B: Germination is erratic and sowing should be at 40-45F for 3 weeks and then move to a propagator at 80F for a further 3 weeks.
C: Sow at 70F and keep moist for 2 to 4 weeks, thereafter drop the temperature to 38-45F for a further 2-4 weeks, usually best by placing outdoors in a cold frame.
D: Sow seeds at normal temperature of 70F after 1 week in the fridge. Be sure to cover the seed and grow cooler after emergence of seedlings.
L: Rub between two sheets of glass paper or scarify (scratch the seed coat) by shaking i a jar of very coarse sand. Sow at 70 to 75F but germination can be erratic and up to 6 weeks.
The Royal Queen Seeds Feminized Starter Kit contains:
Maintaining the ideal temperature (between 22–25°C/71–77°F) and moisture for germination is tricky. Leaving seeds out in the open environment or on a windowsill is far from ideal; a DIY climate-controlled cupboard would do a much better service. A warming mat is perfect for maintaining a constant temperature, but it doesn’t tackle the issue of moisture.
The dome of the plastic container will create your seeds’ own mini tropical climate. If you then place all the components in a temperature-controlled cupboard, you will have created a self-perpetuating supply of moisture—no need to touch the seeds again until they are ready to be transferred to your final growing medium as a young seedling. Using the stone wool block method, your seeds should germinate in one to two days.
USING STONE WOOL BLOCKS
Place one sheet of damp kitchen towel on a flat surface. Space your seeds a few centimetres apart before placing the second piece of kitchen towel over the top. You need to ensure both pieces are damp, not wet. Once again, when the white root tips reach 2–3mm, move the seeds (carefully) to soil pots. Use the same guidance found above for planting techniques.
The soil pots will need small holes (roughly 10–15mm deep) for the newly germinated seeds to be placed into. Once the seeds are secure, you will want to place a fluorescent light 13–15cm (5–6 inches) away to encourage growth. Finally, don’t risk overwatering your seeds at this early stage. Use a plant mister to make sure they stay damp but not soaking wet.
Planting directly into your growing medium prevents having to move seeds when they are at their most fragile. That first root tip is covered with microscopic filaments that are easily damaged. Given that both a cup full of water and moist paper towels are more prone to temperature fluctuations from their environment, planting in soil is a much safer option.
The most optimum temperature for seed germination is in the middle of this range. Tools needed to achieve proper soil temperatures are simple but necessary. Use a soil thermometer and employ use of a good Seedling Heat Mat, for seed germination success.
If these three requirements (moisture, temperature, and air) are met, and fresh seed is used, you should get a high germination rate. If your seed germinates, and then your seedlings die, this is not because the seed is “bad”. All a seed has the capacity to do is germinate. That’s it!
3 Requirements For Germination
For new gardeners, the first step of growing a beautiful and productive garden may seem to be the most difficult. How to start plants from seeds? In actuality, the germination of vegetable seeds is the most straightforward part of growing a garden. You just need to understand what seeds need and the correct tools to do it with. Gardening is a noble, intellectual, and passionate pursuit that anyone can do, and it all starts from an ordinary, humble seed.
By definition, a seed is “the fertilized, matured ovule of a flowering plant, containing an embryo or rudimentary plant.”If you provide the seed with exactly what it needs to sprout, it will, in turn, grow into a plant that has the ability to provide us with a bounty of fruits we can eat, preserve, or share. This is quite a magical thing when you stop to think about it. We gardeners should never take this for granted, no matter how proficient we become at starting plants from seeds.
If a plant becomes infected with a disease, or the plant produces inadequate to no fruit, this has nothing to do with the seed. Failures of fruit production like the size, quantity, or quality of the fruit, relates to care and the environment a plant is growing in, not the seed itself.